Old English roses and a menu of local food – a new team at the Walled Garden, Mells

ONE of the most beautiful “secret” gardens in our area, The Walled Garden at Mells re-opens on 2nd April with a Somerset menu, a focus on old English roses, a new chef cooking local produce and the promise of a programme of plein air events.

Entrepreneur Cosmo Fry and singer songwriter Diane Birch, the new custodians of The Walled Garden, are keen to build on the legacy of this magical place. They have teamed up with Somerset-born chef Jesse Gilchrist who will ‘up the ante’ on the food front, while they have been hard at work restoring and re-planting key elements of the garden.

Built on old ley lines that run through to Glastonbury, Mells is close to the busy and very creative market town of Frome and a short drive from Bath. There has been a garden on this site since the 15th century, but more recently the honey-coloured 17th century walls have enclosed a nursery and café since 2007.

Fry and Birch are determined to preserve the character of this idyllic spot, with its views over the ancient church meadows, keeping it the haven of tranquillity it has become over the years not only for visitors, but also for indigenous wildlife. The planting has been designed with the sense of a natural sanctuary in mind, capturing the spirit of a truly English cotaage garden.

Cosmo Fry felt it was time he put something back into the local community: “I’m born and raised West Country and have lived in Mells 43 years. The Walled Garden is both an architectural wonderland and treasure trove of opportunity. We can build on the hard work of previous custodians and create something very special.

“Restoring architectural heritage and creating new, in harmony with nature, is such a joy and privilege. I have found my nirvana on my doorstep.”

Alongside a deep commitment to ecologically sound practices that will maintain and enhance the biodiversity of the garden, the Walled Garden team also support local and small businesses, organic wherever possible, stocking products in the shed shop that are aligned with this ethos and sourcing free range, local meat for the café.

With a brief to retain the favourites and introduce some new dishes, chef and restauranteur Jesse Gilchrist has created a bespoke menu that fuses international flavours and concepts with local produce. Visitors will still be able to order the traditional quiches, salads and homemade cakes that have become stables of the café’s output over the years, but a new set of longer lunch options will also be available, including slow-cooked local beer-steeped pork with Walled Garden salsa verde, miso-charred local white cabbage with a Somerset honey glaze and an extensive menu of pizzas baked in the wood-fired pizza oven, featuring local meats and cheeses.

Diane Birch, an American-born singer-songwriter who has spent over a decade as a full-time musician, making albums and touring the world, takes on the roles of head gardener, nursery manager and artistic director for The Walled Garden. She says she fell in love with Mells when travelling in the West Country and determined to make it her home, a far cry from her native NYC. “I believe I manifested this storybook country life by watching so many English period films!”, she jokes.

Her interest in gardening began when she moved to the village five years ago and it quickly became a complete obsession, despite having no prior horticultural knowledge. She says: “After being in the spotlight for much of my career, I have found respite and peace in allowing a rose or any other flower to be the star of the show and I a humble fan.”

As well as her gardening skills, Diane also brings an ability to programme musical events and the plan is ultimately to open for occasional summer evenings of food and entertainment, as well as being available for wedding and party hire.

The Walled Garden is open this year from 2nd April – 31st October, from Wednesday to Sunday, 11am-5pm.

The village of Mells is beautiful and steeped in history. Settlements can be dated back to the Mesolithic period, but the name comes from the French “meaulnes”, in recognition of the many mills (up to 30), that could be found along the stream from the village to Vobster. Wool was the foundation of Mells’s medieval prosperity and it continued to be home to the rich and celebrated throughout the following centuries, with the manor house and handsome New Street dating back to the 1460s.

The Horners, whose crest one can see around the village, were a prominent local family from the early 16th century. They were responsible for commissioning works by the architect Edwin Lutyens, the stone mason Eric Gill and the artists Edward Burne-Jones, William Morris, William Nicholson and Alfred Munnings, all of which can be seen in the remarkable St Andrew’s church.

Jesse Gilchrist has most recently been the head chef and owner of Burnt Honey at Castle Cary. Previously he was the head chef at The Village Group, on Australia’s Central Coast, and at Ludos Gourmet Kitchen, Avoca Beach, Australia. He trained at the Red Lion at Babcary near Sparkford.

Pictured are, from left, Cosmo Fry, Diane Birch, Jesse Gilchrist. Photograph © Iain Kemp